The little Croatian village of Bol on the western coast of the island of Brac is a wonderous place. The beach of Zlatni rat and a monastry that snuggles against the aquaramine waters are two outstanding features of this beautiful Croatian island. It was far from the fighting of the Serb-Croat conflict but this signpost points at some of the tensions in the area in the aftermath of the war. I found this on a pile of rubble that peppered the landscape as the re-building of Croatia started to take shape. (This was 2001) Someone had clearly taken a dislike to the sentiments and decided to pepper the enamel with some shotgun bursts. My Croatian squeeze at the time told me that ‘Hrvatskua Preporoda’ means ‘Croatia’s rennaisance’. That sentance, while looking across the Dalmation coastline to Italy, gave me an attack of the goosebumps…